Food - India's vegetarian entree tops taste test

Reshmi Dasgupta

Frankfurt’s magnificent 19th century Alte Opera building inscribed with the motto ‘‘ Dem Wahren, Schvnen, Guten, (To the true, the beautiful, the go
od)’’ is the setting. Rows of straightbacked retainers in grand velvet and satin regalia complete with powdered wigs line the hall. The evocative strains of Mozart’s symphonies rise dramatically above the well-heeled hubbub. The creme de la creme assemble to hear which of them will be rewarded with the ultimate encomium of ‘‘ The Best of the Best’’ ...

It’s the day for the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards, already acknowledged as the ‘‘ Oscars’ ’ of foodwriting, the only international event of its kind. But the new category in the limelight this year is the ‘‘ Best of the Best’’ , singling out just 96 titles from among the 2,00,000 food and wine books brought out by 5,000 publishers since the awards were instituted 12 years ago. In other words, the Nobel prizes of culinary writing, highlighting not only a genre but a generation. It could well have been held in Stockholm, such is the momentous air of the occasion.

Among the laureates who walk up to the lively strains of a Mozart allegro are the legendary French chef Paul Bocuse and American sensation Thomas Keller and the lone Indian awardee Rashmi Uday Singh. She’s almost speechless with pride that ‘‘ Around the World in 80 Plates’ ’ featuring recipes from renowned international chefs is judged the ‘‘ Best of the Best’ ’ among vegetarian books. The book, published by The Times of India group had already won the Gourmand World Cookbook Award in 2005, but this prize is very special...

‘‘ I wrote this book for love and this universe responded with love,’’ says Singh, her head still swimming with the sounds and sights of that magnificent ceremony in the Mozart Room. ‘‘ I travelled around the world, and Meera Jain and I worked four difficult yet exciting years on it. This award is the ultimate crown of recognition.’’ Never far from her thoughts also is the inspiration for the book — her 17-year-old vegetarian epicure friend who savoured the world through its food, and whom she alluded to in her speech at Frankfurt too.

By any measure, the recognition for ‘‘ Around the World in 80 Plates’ ’ is unparalleled and deserved. After all, 80 chefs from every continent have presented 120 of their best vegetarian creations, in a world where non-vegetarianism still hogs the limelight . And that’s why the book is still a draw at select bookstores, even three years after it debuted to international acclaim. ‘‘ You won’t find such elaborate, structured recipes anywhere for vegetarian cuisine,’’ says Singh. ‘‘ And I’m really proud that a book from India has been singled out for such an honour.’’

Even if she still can’t get over that overwhelming moment, the grand citation in gold lettering and red velvet and the certificate is proof that in yet another field, an offering from India stands among the best of the best.